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Cemendtaur's Writings

The Bengali’s Shop

(Translated into English by Moazzam Sheikh)

There was a small-sized general store at the one end of our neighborhood, by the wide boulevard. Although the actual name of the place was Muteen General Store, it was more familiar to people as the Bengali’s Shop. There was an obvious reason for it. The family that ran the store was from East Pakistan.

At the front of the shop glass jars sat atop the counter in a neat line. Inside those jars one found cumin biscuits, sesame laddoos, chewing gum and sweet candies. A weighing scale sat on the other side of the counter, beside a stack of brown envelopes. In the midst of the shop, the owner had piled up bags of rice and flour. A huge canister of ghee was set against the wall. No effort had been undertaken to decorate the shop. The sole object of decoration was a pair of strings that reached the two front corners from the back wall. Hung throughout the strings were triangular advertisements for some famous tea company. Flies perched on the strings and due to the flies’ excretion over a long period the strings had darkened. The shop in fact had been created by tearing down a front wall of the house. The family lived in the rest of the property.

The proprietor was an older man and had four sons, who, in turn, helped out. Muteen, however, remained the most familiar face there. A small girl too was seen helping out, but as she shot up a bit she stopped helping, lest one thought she too, like merchandise, was for sale. The shop was part of the livable space. If too many guests arrived and felt crammed inside the house, a few would pour out and sit there. Growing up, I found the shop to be an essential part of my life. If people couldn’t find an item at a nearby store, they’d stroll down to the Bengali’s shop.

In those days I used to hang out with Sarfraz. Although Sarfraz was only two years my senior, his confident demeanor had earned him tremendous respect in my eyes. I used to feel a sense of protection under his tutelage and chances of someone picking on me were curtailed. Sarfraz had good communication with Muteen. Due to their friendship, Muteen once had invited Sarfraz and me to his house for the Quran recitation. That was my first opportunity to enter the house of any shop keeper. There was just one door that allowed entrance to the house. The door opened onto a narrow corridor. That day we were made to sit on a linen spread in the backyard, where extended a metal roof covering part of the verandah. The neem tree had shed its leaves and berries atop the metal roof.

As the recitation of the Quran came to en end, we were given salted biscuits with tea. After drinking and eating, we headed home and ran into Yousaf midway. He was Sarfraz’s friend from his school days. Yousaf was on his bicycle. He started ambling along while still perched on his bicycle. “What did you eat at the Bengali’s house?” Yousaf asked Sarfraz.

“Don’t refer to them as Bengalis. They don’t like it,” Sarfraz responded with displeasure.

Don’t refer to them as Bengalis. They don’t like it.

Those words from Sarfraz’s mouth remained etched in my mind for many years and many years later I had posed myself a question: When does a group’s ethnic, religious or linguistic identification becomes a curse? And how many times it has to be hurled at them for them to start wearing it as a badge of honor?

I remember asking Sarfraz what the difference was between us and the Bengalis.
“Bengalis have thick hair and they don’t shed them. They have sharp eyes, are short and darker.” Sarfraz had explained it to me with elaboration.

“But Muteen is quite tall,” came out of my mouth of its own volition.
“Every once in a while you’d see a tall one among them too. Moreover, they have been eating better diet while living in the West Pakistan,” Sarfraz answered with confidence.

Time moved on. Then came the days and nights of upheaval! The country was holding elections after many years and there was a buzz in the air due to a change in the environment. I wasn’t old enough to know what political parties were contesting and that why the people of our neighborhood began eyeing the Bengalis with suspicious eyes.

Around the same time I witnessed a man asking Muteen strange questions when I went to the shop one day.
“Do you consider Mujeeb your leader? What’s your opinion about Mujeeb’s six-point agenda?” the man was hurling questions.

When Muteen did not understand the man’s questions, he called his father to the front. The father entered the shop by pushing the curtain aside. “What’s the matter here?” His father looked to his son, then to the stranger.

“This gentleman’s been asking me about Sheikh Mujeeb-ur-Rehman,” explained Muteen.

The father lost control.
“Why do you ask this boy such questions? Is Mujeeb-ur-Rehman his uncle? Are you here to buy anything or play politics? Don’t let me catch you again.” The father gave a thorough dressing down to the stranger.

The man appeared to have been insulted due to my presence.
“Watch yourself, Bengali,” he said and without waiting for an answer, left.
“What did you say, what did you say?” The father rolled up his sleeves and approached the counter, but the man had taken to heels.

I noticed the father was shivering with anger.

A few more months passed. The elections were held and the results were announced but issues became more complicated resisting an easy solution.

March 3rd, 1971, was nation’s major test: whether the two parts of the country would rally behind those who had won the elections. Or whether a group’s false notion of ethnic superiority would prevail? The nation failed the test. The national assembly couldn’t be sworn in. A situation of uncertainty spread throughout the country. I could guess by reading people’s worry-stricken faces that a big storm was headed. Then the sun of March 25 rose, the sun of the darkest day of our history! When the guardians of the house were let loose upon the inhabitants of the house! The war had begun. Not with anyone else but within. All trust had been violated. There were people who thought that it was possible to suppress others through power.

A state of war tests people’s character. The unleashed storm denudes the embattled nation. In that nakedness the world comes to see the reality otherwise hidden behind the delicate façade. It is in a state of war that nations’ entire hatred jumps out to the fore.

Those who raise the slogan of love on hearing sounds of hatred are sages, prophets. Those days such men and women were nowhere in sight.

There were only slogans of hatred!

Bengalis are traitors. In East Pakistan the Mukti Bahni thugs are slaughtering people from West Pakistan. They are raping West Pakistani women. We should do the same here as well. Revenge and revenge and revenge forever! A never ending procession of lies, brutality, inhumanity!

It was a time when man didn’t recognize man, failing to see the human in the enemy, failing to notice how the two breathe the same way, the same air. He, the other, too has a job, a house. Just as he is trying to solve his daily problems, the other too is trying the same. Just as the other loves the ones around him, he too is busy doing just that. When a man forgets to see a thousand similarities between him and the other and insists upon seeing only one difference, be that race, religion, language, then he indeed becomes an animal.

I was observing that kind of animal behavior then.

I remember I went to the Bengalis’ shop with Sarfraz in those days. Sarfraz had very stylishly inserted a handkerchief around his shirt’s collar.

“So, Muteen, my son, is anybody saying anything to you?” Sarfraz asked fiddling with his handkerchief.

“No, Sarfraz bhai, nothing of the sort, answered Muteen.
“Son, let me know if anybody harasses you.” We left the shop.

I wondered for a long time how within the space of one year Muteen changed to "Muteen, my son", for Sarfraz! And why did Muteen tolerate Sarfraz’s insulting way of addressing him? Why didn’t he protest?

That moment and place appear too far if today I stare back stepping aside from the path of time, too far, where the twain walls of the path meet. Despite the distance when I try hard I can make out faint features of the place. There is a dust cloud of fear allowing me to enter it. I recognize the ungly faces of fear striking root inside the heads of the family. I hear the soft creak when their trembling hands shut doors and windows. I can see fear floating in their wide awake eyes. I become familiar with the sound of whispers that their dry throats emit. I have felt the pain of that family. I too have cried.

In those tumultuous times that family must have looked in the eyes of every person it came across to see if he were an enemy or friend. They must have been latching up their door from inside and assuring the doors and windows were securely shut. The women must have recited surah Yaseen before going to bed and clapped three times to chalk out an imaginary circle of safety around them. Despite all the precautionary things they did, they still must have been very fearful. And in the middle of the night when a cat jumped over the metal roof in the back verandah, must have been startled in their sleep.

What do you want? Should East Pakistan separate and become Bangladesh? People would ask these questions without hesitation. The patriotism of the shop owners was tested everyday. The owner would smile and say: The country should remain one, people should learn to live with each other. That still didn’t satisfy people. What they perhaps wanted was for the owner to shout 'Long Live Pakistan' every day and go hoarse yelling 'Sheikh Mujeeb is a traitor, it is not enough to put him in prison, he should be hanged.'

Those days the owner was regularly seen attending the mosque. A storm of hatred had been unleashed and he was simply trying to hold on to something as firmly as possible. Many believed that the glue of religion would keep the two parts of the country together. But that wasn’t meant to be. The storm of linguistic and ethnic hatred was way beyond the power of that glue to keep the parts together. In the end the bond turned out to be quite weak. The entire country plopped down like a defeated, bogged down wrestler.

A new wave of emigration began. Bengali vendors seen squatting atop a small dais selling chooran and colorful fish at the end of school day disappeared. The Bengali women who worked as housemaids too were spotted more infrequently.

“Now you’ve got your Bangladesh. Go there,” people would taunt them.

Despite hearing such venomous bile, the Bengali’s shop stood in the neighborhood. After some time we moved to a different locality. In the beginning I used to visit the old neighborhood often but gradually my visits became very sporadic.

Years went by.

Then an incident of a gruesome slaying happened in our old neighborhood. I read it in the newspaper. A person by the name of Dr. Ja’afar Husain Syed had just opened his clinic when a car came to a stop outside. The back window of the car rolled down and the bullets spewed by a Klashinikov riddled the clinic. After the firing that lasted no more than a minute, the car sped away. People carried the doctor to a hospital but he died on the way. Two days after the murder I went back to my old neighborhood to size up the situation. I noticed shops were open for business as usual. The road was crammed with every conceivable type of traffic. Perhaps people had preferred to forget a two-day old incident. Childhood memories returned on visiting the old neighborhood. I got a jolt realizing that Muteen General Store was not there anymore. In its place Asghar Sports Shop had opened. Involuntarily I entered the shop. The shop’s owner was behind the counter and writing something in his small notebook. He looked up on noticing my arrival. I began looking at cricket bats decked against the wall.

“How long have you been running this shop?” I asked him after a while.

He was still scribbling in his notebook. My curiosity had surprised him.

“The reason I am asking is that there used to be a general store here many years ago,” I offered.

“Well, I do not know about that. I have been running the shop for the last six months. This shop was vacant when I came here,” answered the shop owner as he eyed me carefully.

“We used to live in this neighborhood. I have spent my childhood here. In those days there used to be a Muteen General Store here. It used to do good business.”

He didn’t respond. Now he polished the glass top of the counter.

“How is the business?” I asked after a long pause.

“It’s okay. We’re surviving somehow. Whatever sports is on the TV helps the sale. You know this is the hockey season,” he said slowly running the cloth over the glass counter top.

He let out a chuckle at the end his sentence. I too laughed with him, the way two strangers laugh on inconsequential small talk.

I asked his name as I was about to leave.

“Asghar,” he replied.

“Very nice, and that’s why the shop is named Asghar Sports. And what’s your full name?” I asked.

I sensed my question had made him tense. He looked to his right and then to his left very reluctantly and only then did he answer, “My name is Asghar Husain Zaidi. And yours?”

I told him my name. An expression of relief came over his face.

I took his leave and came out of the shop.








Our Insanities: The Babri Mosque Retaliation

It was early in the morning as we entered Fareed Gate of the old town of Bhawalpur. The shops were being swept in preparation for starting the business. They were the same old town narrow alleys through which only pedestrians could pass. The drain water flowed in open sewers and you could often see garbage that once clotted the sewer placed besides the sewer line. It was the kind of place where everything was open; man was there with all the openness of his uncultured ways. You could tell what the residents ate last night by looking at a garbage heap. A man in his late forties who fastened his pants rather high was showing me way to the Kaladari Mandir. Kaladari temple occupied a big area. A big portion of its boundary wall was removed; it was hard to tell if the intention was to steal the main gate or to make a big enough space so that host of people could rush in and occupy places at the time of creation of Pakistan. In front of the beautiful Hindu facade little children played cricket. The temple is occupied by more than twenty families. Most of the temple's beautiful portions are gutted. Was someone mentioning the desecration of Babri Mosque? Were my people angry over the religious intolerance in India? Well, maybe they have never been to Kaladari and other temples of Pakistan. And mind you, all that was not in retaliation of the Babri demolition, it was like that even before, right from the time of the partition.
Babri demolition really brought out the beast in us. That incident was a test of the children of faith and we failed just like we have been failing for the last 1100 years. While bulldozing temples, with angry fists in the air and smoke coming out of the nostrils of the leading fanatic leaders it was hard to convince the world that we were the believers of Islam, the peace. Pieces rather than peace seemed to be our objective and more than fifty temples lay shattered by the time we cooled down.
What exactly did we try to prove to the world by such a violent reaction? Your response could be whatever, but realistically speaking the world adhered more the idea of a criminal mind in general with the word religion and in particular with the word Islam. By destroying temples we lost four ways.
Damaging a Cause
We gaped at our TV screens when we saw fanatic Hindus leveling the Babri Mosque. It was insane! How could they do that? We were angry , and we were united for the cause of fighting ugly religious fanaticism. Then Mr. Fanatic took charge. Disobeying all Islamic principles of tolerance and such he urged us to bring temples to a size where instead of looking up he could look down at them. Like the front-seaters of a wrestling match we yelled, "we want to see blood". Knocking temples down to pieces in this high emotion kill'em-beat'em-destroy'em phase we left our theo-sociological ideology indistinguishable from the Indian one.
Destroying our Schools and Libraries
Our blood starts boiling when we hear abandoned mosques used as warehouses and stables in other countries. It doesn't even catch a morsel of heat when we occupy abandoned temples for residence or school and use their walls for drying dung cakes. As if this much desecration was not enough we destroyed those buildings dislocating our own schools and libraries (for example children going to school housed in Jan Mandir of Choburji, Lahore discovered one morning that their school was there no more). And what do all those dislocated school children have to say about this? Good question! They now love you even more.
Our mad frenzy meant destruction for the sake of destruction as was evident from the Bara Mandir incident of beautiful Chinyot, Pakistan's Zanzibar. Bara Mandir's building is occupied by a Girls' school; as an angry mob led by furious mullas reached the temple they found the thick-walled heavily built temple too strong to destroy, so they broke the school furniture. Beautiful! You are so intelligent, man. You deserve a Nobel. Similarly the mandir housing a library near the Ghanta Ghar in Sialkot was destroyed depriving citizens of a good place to read books. In other instances adjacent property was damaged too. For example, when Balum Mandir in the locality of Neela Gumbad, Lahore was put on fire the adjacent building housing autoparts worth millions of rupees was also burnt. The Auqaf people occupying the courtyard of the Parladpuri Mandir in Multan saved their lives by writing on the exterior walls that their building was used to teach the Quran.
Killing our own People
Our fanatic leaders are never known for good organization. Like the inspector of a greyhound race setting the dogs on the run these leaders could start the process, but could not control it. In razing temples there was no one to warn, "O.K, now it is coming down, so clear off". Invariably every time a temple was demolished people were also injured or killed. Nine people alone were killed while destroying mandir Undroon Khair-Ul-Madaris in Multan. True martyrs! Now that's called dying for a splendid cause. They'll be rushed to heaven.
Destroying our cultural heritage
All old buildings are part of our rich heritage. It shouldn't really matter which religious group built those buildings and who holds them sacred, they are still ours. By destroying old historical buildings we are depriving ourselves of our living past. So what's next. Clue #1: Moenjo Daro was built by infidels. Clue #1a: Egyptian kings who built pyramids were not Muslims. Go for their buildings.






If you cannot properly read the following URDU essays here, try downloading and then reading them on your computer.

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Nuclear Arms in a Near Miss Culture

Driving back from Sadar I spot a motorcycle. A ten year old is riding with his father. The child is holding a baby. The motorcycle is zigzagging through traffic. I get anxious; I fear the baby will slip out of the hands of the ten year old and will be run over by the traffic. This is too much for me to handle. I pull to a side and let the motorcycle vanish out of my sight. All I can do is pray my fears will not come true. It is not only in raising children, we demonstrate the same kind of casualness in all aspects of our lives. We do things very casually, without the least regard to the consequences, avoiding accidents and mishaps by a hairbreadth margin. Such is our culture. It is the near miss culture of India and Pakistan.
Cars, air conditioning systems, industrial machinery- they all come to our country with safeguards and protections. We take out all the protections and use things with least attention to safety. No matter what God tells us of taking precautions we shrug off and make Him responsible for everything. It is all part of our near miss culture. And sometimes we don?iss it- accidents happen. Trains derail; every couple of months you hear a bus plunging down a mountain because some much needed repair was not done. Most bizarre accidents happen here. Few years ago a train going at full speed ran into a stalled freight train killing hundreds. The stalled train was there because its driver thought about visiting his folks in the nearby village before continuing his journey. Industrial accidents happen all the time. Acid splashes on faces, people electrocuted, hands cut by machine saws- you name it and it happens here. Accidents happen in the western world too but considering the speed at which they are operating and the number of successful operations they get done in a day, the accidents are almost non-existent.
And now, India and Pakistan sharing this near miss culture possess nuclear weapons of mass destruction. Oooooh! The situation makes you jittery. Ever sit down and write different scenarios of things going wrong and you will fill several pages. Error; misjudgment; mistake; jumping the gun; belligerent lunatics, overzealous Hindus on that side (overzealous Muslims on this side) taking hostage a nuclear facility, etc. etc. Bring a diehard atheist and the situation will make him believe in the Almighty. We live in chaos in this part of the world. And amidst this chaos we will be trying to keep tame some very deadly weapons. I don?hink we are good enough to handle this technology of mass destruction.
The argument is: if USA, Russia, and England can have nuclear arsenals what is wrong with India and Pakistan having them. The answer is obvious: the former nations cited in this argument are educated and responsible. We don?ompete with them in literacy, GNP, per capita income, quality of life, etc. Why should we compete with them in the possession of nuclear weapons? After the first and the only twin use of the A-bomb when the consequences of a nuclear war were fully revealed, those nations have shown utmost restraint. USA did not nuke Vietnam on leaving it in disgrace. England did not nuke Argentina over the Falkland issue. I doubt if India and Pakistan can show the same restraint in an armed conflict. We are so fanatic, so full of hatred for each other, so easily provoked, so divided, one group of people will nuke the rival group in the same country, let alone across the border.
The higher the literacy rate in a country the more it is trusted internationally. Had Malaysia have acquired this technology I would have been least bothered. But this dangerous technology in the illiterate societies of India and Pakistan make me very uncomfortable. We are not yet educated, responsible, cool-headed, rational enough to handle it. No matter which professional organizations are on the controls of nuclear weaponry in the two countries, they will be drawing operators from the populace- a populace that shares the near miss culture.
When I reach this far in writing I get a call from a friend. I am told both India and Pakistan have declared moratoria on their nuclear tests. Hearing this is comforting but not comforting enough. Have the two countries laid off all their nuclear and missile scientists? What exactly is happening behind the curtains? How far are the Agnee and Shaheen programs? I will be more comfortable with transparency than with hush-hush. Only when treaties on non-usage of nuclear weapons and complete removal of the nuclear weapons in a specific time are signed, the peace loving people of the two countries could have a good night?leep.
On my worries of a nuclear war I am told that besides plane crashes, road accidents, and heart attacks, this is one anxiety I should learn to live with. I disagree. Compared to heart attacks and accidents a nuclear war is a collective anxiety and a collective anxiety could be removed by a collective will.
For sometime my friend and I talk about the safeguards that should be immediately adopted. The military leaders of both sides should meet right away and discuss measures for avoiding accidental launching of a missile tipped with a nuclear weapon. The fact that the two countries border each other makes things very complicated. We don?ave time to critically analyze a suspicious object in flight. Anything fired from one side reaches the other side in no time. Probably the safeguard could be in verifying by three different means that Bombay or Karachi has indeed been wiped out by a nuke, before launching the counter attack. At this point I get irritated. All this is very complex and completely unnecessary. Why can?he leaders of the two countries sit together and talk? Negotiations and statesmanship are more effective, straightforward and far less expensive than keeping nuclear arsenals.
I understand that this humanitarian point of view is irrespective of the political realities of this region: the Akhand Bharat, the two nation theory, the Kashmir issue, and all other sacred causes asking your sacrifice. Yes, I understand the Indian point of view. They felt threatened by the Chinese supremacy in nuclear arms and the Indians had to prove their might. Yes, I also understand Pakistan?oint of view. Pakistan in turn felt threatened by India?uclear capability and Pakistan?uclear explosion corrected the balance of power in the subcontinent. But we can?id ourselves on the working of the logic of deterrence in this part of the world; we are not known to be very logical people. If we were that logical, cool-headed, and rational why would we be in this state of mess we are in today.
May be it is time to realize some basic facts. The most basic one being that no matter how much India and Pakistan hate each other, neither one can wipe the other out. We have to learn to live with each other. No matter how harsh the political realities are, the present crisis has to be approached from the humanitarian point of view; from the clear understanding that the majority of the people of India and Pakistan are against any kind of war to solve the crisis. No price is too big for lasting peace in this region. Let?orce our leaders to sit together. Let?orce them to postpone their war till they eradicate poverty, provide basic amenities to their people, and till 100% of their populace is literate. And on reaching these goals people in India and Pakistan will be enlightened enough to realize the futility of an arms race.

(appeared in July 12, 1998 issue of Dawn Magazine and April- June 1998 issue of SHEHRI newsletter)


Visiting Cloud Forest in Southern Mexico

"Estas en la ladera oriente del Huitepec, este volcan tience cerca de 10 milliones de anos. Este y el Tzontehuitz son las montanas mas importantes de la region. Los tzatziles llaman e este volcan Muktevitz que significa."
We read the Spanish sign and tried to make out the meaning. We had been traveling in Mexico for more than two weeks, but our Spanish was still very basic. One thing we clearly understood from the sign was that the volcano we
were climbing was 10 million years old. We were in the Huitepec Ecological Reserve, which is situated on the extinct Huitepec Volcano. The evergreen cloud forest ecosystem of the Reserve is home to more than 300 plant species and 60 different kinds of birds. The gatekeeper of the reserve had informed us (in Spanish) that the two-kilometer trail that could be done without the
help of a guide would take us to a height of 2390 meters.

Traveling overland from California we had finally reached Southern Mexico two days ago. The southern province of Chiapas is far away from Mexico City. Mexico has to use its army to convince the separatist elements of Chiapas that
their province is better off staying united with Mexico. We found an army check post situated at the entrance of San Cristobal- the most visited town of Chiapas. The army was keeping a vigilant eye on all traffic coming in and
going out of San Cristobal. People of Chiapas consider themselves different from average Mexicans, and Chiapans are. Racially, people of Chiapas are purer American Indians than other Mexicans. People in far-flung villages of Chiapas still live a traditional lifestyle- the way their ancestors have lived since time immemorial. That lifestyle is in harmony with the natural environment. The waves of globalization are challenging that traditional
lifestyle. Greed is now all around these traditional people. It is not enough to eat, drink, and live a happy life. Now there is a competition. You have to eat, drink, and live better than others; to be accepted in the modern
society you have to make your life more and more complicated. People of Chiapas want to do away with the competition and keep on living their lives the old-fashioned way. Mexico won't let them do that.

We started climbing. The trails were not clearly marked. As we went up the path narrowed and the grass thickened. We passed a little stream. Some butterflies got disturbed and fluttered in all directions. We walked for more
than a kilometer before realizing we were on the wrong trail. We were on the eight-hour trail that was advised to be done with a guide. We came back and started anew on another trail. A kilometer later we came across some signs
that matched the directions given to us by the keeper: we were on the right track.

It was middle of November and the day was cold. Strenuous climb did not make us feel warmer. Now that we were in the middle of the jungle, pollens and insects started bothering us. In that environment for tough competition for
life, we were attacked. We had willingly become a part of that ecosystem; different life forms treated us as fair game. We stopped and smeared insect repellent on our exposed body.

As we went higher the tree canopy became continuous and it became harder for sunrays to penetrate through. The humidity at that altitude was higher owing to the clouds hitting the jungle. The botanical life had learned to respond to changing humidity, we saw different species of plants at different altitudes. We came across mushrooms. Mushroom- that wonderful fungus. Mushrooms do not have any chlorophyll and consequently do not need sunlight to
grow. Mushrooms should be called the vultures of the botanical world. They are waste-recyclers; they devour the carcasses of plants.

Starting from Southern Mexico, Central America is a region of great geological activity. Several tectonic plates collide in that region and volcanoes dominate geography. In that land of volcanoes the fertility of the living
world has its beginning in the Earth. The Earth spurts out lava- lava that is the semen of the earth. Lava spreads out and gives fertility to soil- plant life takes roots on these sperms of the earth. Later birds and other
biological life come and join the party. A day before we had visited a village to see the traditional Maya lifestyle. Maya women of that region walk
bare feet. They believe that walking bare feet the fertility of the land could be imparted in them. Maya are good observers of their natural environment.

We covered the trail in little more than two hours. The biological diversity of that Ecological Reserve was impressive. We decided to show our appreciation for the conservation efforts of Mexico by supporting the park. I
inquired but the office at the entrance did not have any post cards, T-shirts, or other souvenirs to sell. The administration did not know how to run the park in profit through sale of souvenirs. We returned disappointed.

On our way to the hotel we bought a large papaya. Later that night when we opened up the fruit we found its meat to be dark red- the mineral content of the lava land was manifesting itself in different ways. Papaya's aroma was to
be treasured too. The color and aroma of that fruit still live in my memory.

How to defeat greed? How to convince businesses of the importance of ecological conservation? How to save the natural beauty of our planet for the coming generations? These themes traveled with us going south: Guatemala, El
Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Venezuela and finally Brazil. After crossing the Venezuelan-Brazilian border we traveled from Boa
Vista to Manaus in the Amazon heartland. The environmental damage in that route was heartbreaking. Acres and acres of Amazonia rainforest were cleared to make room for cattle ranches. Environment awareness makes us understand
the concept of sharing nature. Rainforests of Brazil produce 20% of world's oxygen supply- no matter where we are in this world, every fifth breath that we take derives its oxygen from Brazil. By destroying their rainforests the
Brazilians are hurting everybody's interest. We can't let them choke us to death. The old concepts of nationhood and countries are not going to work in the wake of tough environmental realities of today. It is one planet with its
water, air and all natural reserves to be shared by all.

Cemendtaur
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VISITING THE LIZARD ISLAND

Malawi runs north south in the shape of a strip. Lake Malawi occupies almost half of its area. On a clear day -standing at the Malawian shore of the lake- one can see Mozambique on the east side of the lake. Lake Malawi is part of the Great Rift Valley system which in fact is the division of high and low level areas in East Africa. Lake Malawi has a strange temperament; it is often very calm and the water surface appears as smooth as a mirror, but when it gets rough it is v-e-r-y rough. The day I decided to visit the Lizard Island, Lake Malawi was furious. The Council Rest House where I stayed in the town of Salima was about 5 km from the lake shore. I was told about a small island 1.5 km off the cost; it had a name that inspired any curious traveler for its visit- translated in English it was called 'the Lizard Island'. Having no luck with hitch hiking I took an African taxi to the coast. The African taxi was more precisely an Isuzu truck with two passengers sitting in front with the driver and about ten to fifteen sitting in the back- in open. The lake being rough that day most intelligent fishermen refused to take me to the island. It took lot of persuasion to get few young men agree for this adventure; I offered 20 Kwacha, they wanted 30 so we settled on 25 Kw. It did not take too long for me to realize that boat ride was going to be the toughest I would ever have. On the undulating water surface the boat would jump up and then would come crashing down four to five feet. Few very strong jolts made me think about retreating but then I decided to appear composed- I was the only Pakistani they had ever come across; how could I prove myself a chicken and earn this image for the whole nation. Not too long ago I had my breakfast, and just before the boat ride I had a cold drink. Few hundred yards away from the shore and I started feeling very sick; very soon I started throwing up. One of the crew members asked me if I wanted to go back; I shook my head in 'no'. I started feeling worse and worse. After a spell of major regurgitation when I looked at them with my watery eyes they had stopped rowing and were all looking at me with pity. The captain asked me in a mixture of Checheva and English if I wanted to go back; we were still good one kilometer away from the island. The thought ran in my mind about how success hides around the corner when retreat
appears tempting. With child-like beseeching I asked them to, 'please, take me to the island', and added: 'this man never goes back'. The affirmation with which I uttered the later part of the sentence made them believe in me and they stopped paying attention to my vomiting noises. I never stopped throwing up until my empty stomach howled back at me and my mouth longed for drawing something from deep inside.
Approaching the island the captain- in a desire to anchor at the more accessible north side of the island- decided to pass the boat through a channel between two rocks. I could see one of rocks frequently submerging under hyperactive waves. What if the boat wrecks against the rock? I felt too weak to swim the few yards to the island. Distracting myself from the occasion I tried to focus my thoughts on day before when I lost my wits on buying dates packed in Iraq. How did they get to Malawi? The boat made it through the narrow passage. As we neared the island the activity of the crew grew. They were all shouting at the same time. The boat needed to be rowed sideways to anchor, and it required coordination of the rowing team. After seventy-five agonizing minutes we had anchored near a big boulder. It was a rocky island with lots of leave-less trees. From a distance what appeared to be the fruits of these trees were in fact the white-head fish eagles. I counted them to be an average of 30 eagles per tree; there were almost 100 trees. That put the eagle count at 3000, which were lot of eagles for that little island. Besides trees and eagles there were plenty of lizards crawling and dashing from one crevice to another- their presence gave the island its alluring name. What could bring the lizards to the island? The only possible explanation was that the island was once a mountain, then the water grew and surrounded it making it a rocky island. In an ever changing world the nature keeps making things anew. It is just that we live for such a short while we never realize the strength of wind and water as the true forces acting over the medium of time. We stayed at the island for fifteen minutes and then started our return journey. By that time the remnants in my stomach had settled together so I started throwing up once more. I tried in vain to bring myself in a lighter mood by thinking of Afaq, the Council Rest House Manager, who would confuse between the sounds of 'l' and 'r'. He would call me Ari. Afaq told me he wanted to go see Buckingham Paris. It was only after realizing his pronunciation confusion that I figured out it was not Buckingham and Paris individually that he wanted to see, but it was in fact the Buckingham Palace that he was interest in. By the time we made it to the shore I was shook to my marrow and had a very strong desire to sit in a toilet for a very long time. I paid the young men 30 Kwacha instead of 25 and started eagerly looking for a place to use the toilet. What I thought of as a public rest house was in fact someone's home, but they were kind enough to let me use their toilet. My whole digestive system was so shaken up it wanted to expel from both ends; I felt much better after using the toilet. The English mother and daughter were very hospitable; I chatted with them over a cup of tea and tried to entertain them with some of my travel stories. By that time the daughter's tobacco-growing boyfriend was there; he gave me a ride to the Council Rest House where I laid on my bed till it grew dark.